Wardrobe Building Part 3: Shut up and Take My Money

It's been quite a while since I posted about wardrobe building, so let's continue! After you've searched for inspiration and raided your closet, you're ready to take your wardrobe building to the next level. You know what you're looking for. You know what you already have. You're ready to hop on a plane and fly to Shibuya, right? Not quite. Let's be reasonable about this.
Before you even start, you should do a little bit of budgeting. This will really look different for everyone. In my case, I'm a student with many years of holiday money saved up (remember, I've been dreaming about this wardrobe for a long time!) but no job. That means that my way of "budgeting" was to set guidelines for what's "reasonable" rather than hard-and-fast numbers. Personally, based on my own situation, I decided that I could afford a handful of used brand pieces supplemented by many hand made and thrifted pieces, and cheap pieces found on the internet (on eBay, AliExpress, etc).
Do what makes sense for your situation. For the time being, I can't say I have much great advice, since I'm just on the cusp of being an adult with a paycheck and bills to pay, but maybe sometime in the next year I'll be able to come back and write more in depth about budgeting for a cute wardrobe. However, there is one rule of thumb that might be useful. If you're trying to do this on a budget, it's going to mean one of two things: either building your budget very slowly, or sacrificing quality. This is a fine line to walk, and there's no one right answer. Of course, it'd be nice to have a wardrobe full of Liz Lisa. On the other hand, if that means waiting two months just to buy one skirt even while buying used and scoping out good deals, you run the risk of never being able to actually wear the clothes that you do buy. Your taste might change in the time you're waiting to build up a wardrobe that's wearable, or your clothes might not be seasonal anymore. At the same time, you can't throw out quality either. As much as brands shouldn't matter, if you're trying to avoid any brand items, you'll inevitably fall into one trap or another. Maybe you'll end up with a wardrobe that strays too far from the spirit of the fashion you're pursuing (like trying to build a himekaji wardrobe with items bought entirely from Forever 21... it might still be cute but it will only ever loosely approximate the look you had in mind), having outfits that look extremely cheap (like trying to build a wardrobe entirely out of cheap eBay items... some of them are cute but you need high quality items to balance out the low quality ones you'll inevitably end up with), or spending an exorbitant amount of time behind your sewing machine (if you really had the time to sew an entire wardrobe by hand, you could probably afford to buy all brand in the first place). Again, where you toe the line is up to your personal situation and judgement.

The next step once you know roughly your spending limits is to do some extensive window shopping. I organized the items I'd selected from my existing wardrobe into an image on my computer  (MS paint to the rescue!) so that I could see everything all together and see how much from each category I needed.

The first iteration of my wardrobe planning.
You'll notice that I was very optimistic when I sorted through my wardrobe the first time. "This t-shirt has a peter pan collar on it. That's cute, right?" "This dress is floral, right? That's totally princessey!" You'll notice that this image has way more items than what I posted in my last wardrobe building post. This is because as I window shopped, I realized that there were a lot of pieces in my existing wardrobe that really didn't belong in my new one, and I continued to prune (and have continued to prune further since writing that post), leaving only a handful of pieces that will truly mesh with my new himekaji clothes.

After I did some window shopping.
Over the course of the next few weeks, I made adjustments to this image, collecting many items that I thought I were missing. This process was similar to the daydreaming stage, but this time I wasn't madly saving every cute Liz Lisa dress I saw. This time I was looking for more realistic inspiration. I was searching eBay and wholesale websites, trying to find cute off brand items. I was looking at auction sites to get a handle on how much used Liz Lisa tends to go for. I was still searching the Liz Lisa catalogs, but this time looking for simple and non-patterned pieces I felt I could make myself. This collage eventually turned into my first eBay haul. At this point, though, it was starting to look extremely messy, and most of the pieces I had originally photographed had been removed from my wardrobe, so I reorganized.

Reorganized, after I'd bought more of my wardrobe.
When I made my new collage, I broke the image up into "stuff I own" (left side of the green line) and "stuff I want to own" (right side of the green line). This was much easier for me to look at, and as a result it was much more useful in helping me decide what to buy. Before buying anything, I like to paste it into my collage (which again, I'm just using a simple paint document to do this) and see how it looks with the other things I have in my wardrobe.
What has worked so far for me has been a process of buying ➸ wearing ➸ dreaming etc. I've been doing roughly $50 hauls with a handful of main items, and trying to sustain on just my wardrobe in its current shape once those orders arrive. After the first haul I was disappointed to see that I really needed more of everything. I wasn't able to put together a single complete outfit. When my second haul arrived, I realized I'd gone a bit dress crazy, and that while I was maybe a good pair of shoes away from having several day's worth of cute dress coordinates, wearing fancy dresses on a daily basis was a bit much for me. However, I also noticed that I was continuously reaching for skirts that didn't exist. So I got more skirts. By buying in small chunks and attempting to wear everything before buying more, you can make sure you're building your wardrobe wisely. For the first few hauls, you won't be able to successfully dress within your capsule wardrobe until laundry day, but you'll get a sense of what areas you're really lacking in.

I'm still in the middle of this step, but I'm really happy with my progress. I hadn't looked at my first wardrobe collage in months, and it's really motivating for me to see how far I've already come.
I really hope that I can finish buying the bulk of my wardrobe soon! I'll write another post once I'm finished talking about where I did most of my shopping, what search terms were useful to me, and other odd tips related to shopping. Then pretty soon afterwards I'll probably launch into transitioning from one wardrobe to another while I fill out my Fall wardrobe.

See you next time!

Afternoon Projects: Faux Sukapan

It's been way too long since my last update! School is starting very soon so there have been a lot more people to hang out with from Summer. The cafeteria is getting so crowded! Gone are the days that I could eat when I'm hungry without standing in a huge line. Ah well... but it's kind of exciting isn't it?
Yesterday I finally sat down with some of my cute fabric and decided to make a skirt! I want to make real sukapan in the future, but I think I need to find the right fabric for it. If it's too stiff I'm afraid it'll look too much like shorts. But in the mean time, I figured I could make some fake sukapan with my lace shorts and a gathered circle skirt! 

My lace shorts. Wouldn't it look cute peeking out from a skirt?

I found this fabric at Joann and while it's not absolutely perfect for himekaji (the print is a bit small compared to most Liz Lisa skirts) I still think it has a cute effect. This kind of skirt is very cute and also very easy to do. If you've ever made a circle skirt, it's exactly like that, only instead of using your actual waist measurement, you make the opening wider so that you can gather it as well. After a bit of experimenting, I found that a gather of 1.5x your waist measurement is ideal. I think this look is much cuter than a regular gathered skirt, since you can get really full without having a whole lot of bulk right at your waist. Since I wanted this to look like sukapan, I made sure to hem the skirt just short enough so that the bottom tier of my shorts would peek out from underneath. I really like the result!

 
As you can see, this skirt really is just a huge circle skirt that's been gathered to my waist measurement!



I gathered most of the skirt and sewed it to a waistband. When you do this, you shouldn't be lazy like I was and you should use interfacing. I was originally meaning to have the entire waistband be elastic but found that it was adding a bit too much bulk to my waist and it was unflattering. When I changed my mind the waistband had already been sewn shut so I didn't bother with it... but it would look much better if you used some!



I did leave a small section in the back ungathered so that I could add some elastic. I love elastic skirts and shirring because it always fits you perfectly, it's easy to get on and off, and it's really comfortable.

I'm sure this is something that I'll make again, so I'll be sure to document the process a bit more carefully next time and turn it into a full blown tutorial.
All of the things I ordered in the last two hauls have arrived, so I'm way overdue for a big review post, so you'll be seeing that soon!
Thanks for reading~


Recent Purchases: My Growing Army of Cute Clothes! [Liz Lisa + Ank Rouge]

Hello everyone! It's been crazy hot here lately! For a moment there it got a bit chilly, and I was worried that Summer was ending with only a few pieces for my summer wardrobe... but this heat is making me feel there is still plenty of space in my closet for warm weather clothes. 
I was feeling optimistic about the wearability of my wardrobe, even though I have so much space for more items, but after taking it with me on a trip, I discovered that while I do have some great individual items, I'm still lacking a functional wardrobe. I realize that I need more of everything, but I think I'm especially in need of shirts and skirts! Hopefully the heat lets up enough in the next few days. I have a lot of cute fabric that I want to turn into skirts! But right now I just feel like I'm melting... even online shopping has been difficult. Anyway, I don't see an end to this heat so I'll just stop writing ineloquently and show you all what I've bought recently!

eBay Finds!

Liz Lisa Pink Floral Dress
White Lace Dress

White Lace Skirt

Pink Floral Skirt
I've been really getting in the swing of things with eBay lately. I've been checking for new Liz Lisa listings every day, my watch list keeps growing and growing! For a while I was really afraid of auctions, but after winning the white lace dress, I wish that more things would go up for auction. It was really fun counting down to the last minute to place my bid, and I was excited when I won. I was really excited about winning the Liz Lisa dress, since I'd been drooling over it for over a month now. It's just so cute and I think it'll tie in so well into fall as well. I was really torn between the pink and brown version, but I think I made a good decision.
I've been having a really hard time finding cheap skirts to fill up my wardrobe with, but I like the two that I've found so far, and thankfully skirts aren't all too hard to make myself either. It's a little hard to tell but the pink skirt has little flowers all over it. I love that it almost looks like polka dots from far away.

Gyaru Community Sales

Ank Rouge Blouse

Liz Lisa Light Blue Dress
On top of browsing eBay, a friend of mine also introduced me to a Live Journal Gyaru sales community with lots of really cute clothes. My biggest struggle here and also in Facebook sales communities has been finding people from within the US, since international shipping can really add up. But I found these two on there the other day and was really excited. I really need more of these casual blouses, and the light blue dress is absolutely adorable. Worn as-is, it'll be great for hot summer days, and come fall I think it would look great with some tall boots and a cardigan! The seller was really patient with me as I got my eBay account set up again. I'm really looking forward to receiving these items.

Thrift Stores

Bow Tie Chiffon Blouse
Although finding hime-able clothing at thrift stores is somewhat rare, I've still been scouting them out and managed to find this nice chiffon blouse. This was actually one of the few things I had initially expected to find at thrift stores easily, but when I started actually looking they absolutely disappeared! So I was really excited to find one, but on top of that this one fits me almost perfectly. My only complaint is the arms fall a bit awkwardly below my elbows, but that will be a really easy fix once I pull out my sewing machine again.



Looks like my wardrobe is starting to pull together! My eBay watch list is full of items, and I've got plenty of sewing projects once this heat lets up, so I'm really excited to start getting to the point that my wardrobe becomes wearable.
I hope I don't melt before my next update!


Hilariously Not Lolita: Courtesy of eBay

I've been visiting home for the past few weeks, so my updates became a bit less frequent recently, and I also somewhat dropped the ball on my summer wardrobe. Unfortunately, especially when it comes to spending money, I am a slacker. My wardrobe has a little under 10 real pieces at the moment, and Summer only has a little over a month left. Needless to say, my "Summer" wardrobe won't be getting much use this year. Lucky for me, I live in a climate where Fall and Summer aren't too different from each other, so I should be able to get away with recycling most of my Summer wardrobe into the next season, which is exactly what I intend on doing. With that said, I'll push on building my Summer wardrobe while keeping fall compatibility in mind. However, let this be a lesson to those of you planning your capsule wardrobes! Give yourself plenty of time and don't let yourself waver too much on your purchases, or you'll end up with only half completed wardrobes like me. 
Feeling the pressure of time, I've been spending a lot of my time browsing eBay for relevant auctions and good deals. As much as I want a full Liz Lisa closet, I'm still new to the fashion so I'll have to make do with cheaper off brand items for the bulk of my pieces. Thankfully, I'm finding that there are a lot of eBay sellers which focus on cheap Asian fashion, and a lot of these are very relevant to himekaji as well! One tip I've learned for shopping for several j-fashions on the cheap is to simply search for "lolita" on eBay and then sort by price. While you won't have much luck shopping for a lolita coord on eBay, you will find that it is ripe with j-fashion appropriate items of all flavors! Of course, this is also a great form of entertainment. In the context of lolita, the items range from "tacky" to "ugly" to "what the heck were you thinking!?". In the spirit of sharing my amusement with you (and because my sewing machine is packed up at the moment, I can't really afford to buy much until I get paid, and I thus have pretty much no other topics to write on) I present to you:

The Top 20 Non-Lolita Things Listed as Lolita on eBay

1. What is loliable?

By far the worst offender is the loliable: clothing which is not lolita brand but could easily fit into a lolita coord... or so they think. Of course there are lots of things which totally fit this category. However, the following do not.
The cutting edge of office lady lolita.

I still remember the bloodbath over AP's booty shorts release.

This isn't ok even without calling it lolita.

I dare you to coord this.

2. Etsy-tier.

Because it's a dress with a themed print it must be lolita, right?
It's just a matter of adding a petti.

Simply adorkable.

Cheap lace a lolita skirt makes not.

3. Wrong lolita, asshole.

Lots of people think that lolita is some weird fetish. Some people take that assumption a step further.
I hate how everyone always forgets about all the fishnet used in elegant Victorian fashion.
Is this what male fantasy lolita looks like?
It's guro lolita, guys.

4. Seriously, what were you thinking?

Some of this stuff doesn't fit cleanly into any category, because I really have no idea what they were thinking when they decided to list this stuff as lolita.
Make the pom pom violence stop.
Nothing says lolita like the stars and stripes of freedom.

Please tell me this isn't some kind of weird ageplay thing.

5. Remember when Lolita Kisama made everyone think visual kei was lolita?

I hope I'm not the only one who remembers the brand that totally defined my middle school fashion experience. The brand might be dead, but its spirit lives on in listings like these.
Everyone will know you listen to Linkin Park.


Going for that "gothic prom queen zombie" look.

Nothing screams elegance like cheap raschel lace.

6. Lace monsters and cosplay and satin, oh my!

I'll wrap up this post with the cheap halloween costumes of lolita fashion.
Complete the look with rocking horse shoes and a Chobits headband.
Complete the look with cat ears, a leash and collar, and low self esteem.
Complete the look by throwing it in the trash.
It's not a costume, god mom.


Thank  you for coming with me on this wild ride.
Until next time,